Hello, dear reader! Welcome to our lovely blog, Handmade Learning Here. Today, we are thrilled to bring you an incredibly spectacular pattern that we’re sure you will find just as enchanting as we do. It’s the Squared Diamond Granny Throw crochet pattern!
The Squared Diamond Granny Throw is a delightful expression of crochet artistry, offering a unique combination of simplicity and sophistication. This pattern stands out with its geometric shapes that form a beautiful diamond design across a series of squares. The harmony between the squares and diamonds creates a piece that is not only visually appealing but also incredibly versatile. Whether you’re making a cozy blanket or a decorative accent, the Squared Diamond Granny Throw is a popular choice among crochet enthusiasts.
What makes this pattern special is its clever use of colors and textures, allowing for a wide range of combinations and styles. Each square is meticulously crafted to ensure the diamonds really pop, creating a visual effect that is both elegant and intriguing. The choice of colors can significantly influence the final result, making this pattern ideal for personalized projects. From subtle, monochromatic tones to vibrant, bold combinations, the possibilities are nearly endless.
Beyond its aesthetics, the Squared Diamond Granny Throw offers a relatively simple approach to crochet, even for larger projects. The basic granny square technique is repeated and expanded to create a pattern that is both accessible and challenging. For many crocheters, this pattern provides an excellent way to practice and refine their skills while working on a project that can be completed in a relatively short amount of time.
Now, let’s talk about the materials you’ll need…
Yarn: For a project using five colors, you’ll need five skeins of yarn, each weighing 7 ounces. The outermost color will require almost the entire 7-ounce skein, while the innermost color will use about half of that. The remaining colors will fall somewhere in between these amounts.
Hook: I used an “I” hook, also known as a #9 or 5.50mm. However, you don’t have to stick to this size. For a larger bed, you could use a “G” hook and make four panels, or a single panel for a crib. A “K” hook with bulky yarn would work well for a big floor cover, or a “J” hook with rug yarn could create a sturdy floor covering. If you tend to crochet loosely, a size “H” hook may give you similar results to mine. The key is to be flexible; there’s no need to worry if you don’t have the “right” hook size.
Granny Style: For this granny throw, I suggest using the standard 3 double crochet (3DC) clusters with no chain stitches between them, and a chain of three at each corner.
To ensure a consistent look between the inner granny square and the outer corners, it’s essential to turn your work at the end of each row. If you don’t, the stitches will appear different, and the outer corners will not match. Working back and forth is necessary unless you prefer to cut and tie off the yarn after every row.
The only fixed aspect of this pattern is the total number of rows, which must be even. This means the squares should have 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 rows, and so on. The larger outer squares also need to end on an even-numbered row.
In my version, I used 10 rows with 5 different colors, 2 rows per color. However, you can customize it by using as many colors as you like and varying the number of rows per color, whether single, double, triple, etc.
Finishing a Square – Double-Sided and Single-Sided:
At the end of your last row, turn your work so the front side is facing you.
Slip stitch (sl st) into the front loop of every stitch around the square, including the chain 3 spaces (Ch3s). Make sure to slip stitch loosely over the chain spaces.
Chain 1 (Ch 1) in the center of each side of the square and mark this stitch with a stitch marker so you don’t lose it.
Counting Stitches:
How many stitches should you have on each side of your square?
You should have 3 stitches for each cluster and 2 extra stitches for the corners (not counting the middle of the chain 3 space).
For example, on the first side: If you have 10 clusters, that’s 3 stitches per cluster, so 3×10 = 30 stitches, plus 2 more for the corners, which gives you a total of 32 stitches.
Remember that extra stitch I had you add in the center of the slip stitch row? It doesn’t count as a separate stitch. It’s actually considered both the last and first stitch in the center clusters.
Starting the Sides:
Two-Sided:
Look at the edge of your work where you did the slip stitch row. You’ll see two threads behind the front and back loops. One thread is slightly longer and the other is a bit shorter and closer to your hook hand.
Use these two threads for attaching the sides of your square. This will create a ridge on both the front and back of your piece.
For the corners, use the two threads at the center of each chain 1 space to help anchor the corners.
One sided:
On the edge, use one center thread and one back loop to attach each row. The two back threads from the center Ch1 will secure your corner group.
Starting at the center marked Ch st, move backward toward the hand holding the hook. SC into the second stitch from the center (the edge of your ‘hook side center cluster’) using your center color. Ch1, then make a corner cluster set in the center marked stitch: (3DC, Ch3, 3DC). Ch1 and slip stitch to the second stitch on the other side of the center (the outer edge of the cluster on the opposite side).
Ch 3. Count two stitches out from where you joined the slip stitch and make a single crochet (SC). (This will set up the next cluster.) Turn your work!
Row 2: In the space created by the chain 1 at the base of the ch 3, work 2 double crochets (DC) to form a 3 DC cluster.
In the corner tip, work a standard corner cluster. Then, in the original single crochet (SC) from where you started the color, work another 3 DC cluster.
To finish the color, make a single crochet (SC) into the second stitch up and fasten off. Turn your work!
Why Use SC Stitches for Tying On and Off?
Using single crochet (SC) stitches to tie on and off helps conceal the ends on the inside of the color change, rather than at the edge. This makes it easier to hide the ends and achieve a cleaner finish.
Row 3 Instructions:
Position your work to add the next color. Slip stitch (sl st) to the second stitch from the last used on that side (the first stitch of the third cluster on the hook side).
Chain 1 (Ch 1), then create a 3-double crochet (3DC) cluster in the SC space at the end of the last color.
Continue working in granny style through the side and around the corner to the other side.
On the opposite side, chain 1 (Ch 1), slip stitch (sl st) to the second chain from the last attachment, chain 3 (Ch 3), and single crochet (SC) in the second stitch out from the last slip stitch (the first stitch of the third cluster on that side).
Turn your work.
AT THE CORNERS:
For the 8th row, start by chaining 3 after finishing the 7th row. Instead of attaching to the side, turn your work and use the space from the last row to continue down. Complete the cluster you began with the chain 3. At the end of the row, do not tie off or attach. Instead, pull out a long stitch, loosely tie it, leave a slightly long tail, and cut.
Turn your work so the front is facing you. Move to the next side and, at the end of the 8th row, chain 1 and slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 from the previous side. Tie off and turn your work to the front again. Move forward to the next side and repeat the process for each side.
Finally, use the long tail from the first section to chain 1 and slip stitch to the last side to complete the edge.
In the 9th row, position the center cluster over the corners and conceal the Ch1 space as you would when hiding a tail. Connect the cluster to the corner stitch in the lower color without stitching around it like you do with regular granny corners. Instead, work behind the front loop and use the two middle loops. This technique will leave the stitch ridges visible on the inner diamond, creating a layered effect with the inner square appearing to rest on the outer one. While you can choose any color to finish the outer square, matching it to the inner square often yields a more cohesive look.
For each subsequent layer of outer squares, follow the same process as the first. Make your slip stitch (sl st) row using only the front loops and attach side connections to the inner loops of this row.
As your squares expand, each side configuration will vary. You might use additional color bands or more rows of each color on subsequent layers. You can also add one or two extra rows to complete the throw, depending on your preference.
Embrace flexibility and enjoy the process. If needed, adjust a few stitches to ensure everything aligns properly. Crochet is quite forgiving, and minor tweaks will not be noticeable.
Line by Line:
Start: Create a magic circle.
Row 1: Chain 3 (this counts as your first double crochet). In the magic circle, work 2 double crochets. Chain 3, then work 3 double crochets in the circle – repeat this step 3 times. Chain 2. Close the magic circle by pulling the end tight. Single crochet (SC) into the top of the initial chain 3. Chain 3 and turn your work. (Remember to turn your work at the beginning of each row in this pattern!)
Row 2: Work 2 double crochets in the chain-2 space from the previous row. In the next chain-3 space, make 3 double crochets, then chain 3, and make 3 double crochets again. Repeat this step 2 times. Make 3 double crochets around the post of the single crochet from the previous row. Chain 3, then slip stitch into the top of the first chain-3 from this row. Cut the yarn and fasten off. Turn your work around.
Row 3: Change to a new color. Slip stitch into any side space. Chain 3 (this counts as your first double crochet) and make 2 more double crochets in the same space. In the next corner space, make 3 double crochets, chain 3, and make 3 double crochets. In the next gap, make 3 double crochets. In the next corner space, make 3 double crochets, chain 3, and make 3 double crochets. Repeat steps 4-6 all the way around until you get back to the first corner. Slip stitch into the top of the first chain-3 you made. Chain 3 and turn your work around.
Row 4: Work 2 double crochets (DC) in the same space, then 3 DC in each subsequent space. After that, work 3 DC, chain 3, and another 3 DC in each corner cluster’s chain 3 space. Slip stitch to the top of the first chain 3 to join. Fasten off.
Row 5: Change color. Slip stitch (Slp st) into any middle gap. Chain 3 (Ch 3), then work 2 double crochet (2DC) stitches into the same gap. Work 3DC into each gap around. In each corner space (where there is a Ch 3 from the previous row), work a corner cluster: [3DC, Ch 3, 3DC]. Slip stitch to the top of the first Ch 3 in the first cluster. Chain 3 (Ch 3) and turn.
Row 6: Work 2 double crochets (DC) into the same gap. In each subsequent gap, work 3 double crochets. In each chain-3 corner, make a corner cluster. Slip stitch to the top of the first chain-3, then fasten off and turn your work.
Row 7: Change color. Slip stitch into any middle gap, then chain 3 and work 2 double crochets (DC) into the same gap. Work 3 double crochets in each remaining gap, and create a corner cluster in each corner. Slip stitch to the top of the initial chain-3, chain 3, and turn your work.
Rows 8 to 10: Repeat Rows 6 and 7. Do not turn at the end of Row 10.
Outside of Square:
With the slip stitch (Slp St) on your hook and the front of the last row facing you, work a slip stitch in the front loop of each double crochet (DC) and loosely in each chain.
Chain 1 (Ch1) in the center of each side, and mark this Ch1.
Slip stitch to the first slip stitch and tie off.
Refer to the pictures in the long notes above for visual guidance.
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